Vines have to work for a living here. Les Choisilles sits on clay and flint over tuffeau, the soft chalk the Loire chateaux were carved from, and the roots carve their own paths through the subsoil to find what they need. Francois Chidaine farms it biodynamically and presses gently, and the wine that results is the most precise thing in his dry Montlouis lineup: citrus and white peach, acacia and lily, dense yet somehow fluid, with a savory flesh and a peppery snap at the end. Chenin Blanc is the great shape-shifter of white grapes — dry, sweet or sparkling, it does all of them — and this is the dry version at its most focused. Drinking well now, and it'll keep getting better for years.