Chenin Blanc has more range than any other white grape — it's great dry, great sweet, great sparkling — and Francois Chidaine is the man who proved Montlouis could do it every bit as well as Vouvray across the river. Les Bournais may be the finest vineyard he farms: clay-limestone at Husseau in Montlouis-sur-Loire, worked biodynamically, aged five to six months on fine lees in demi-muids. It's the exotic one in his lineup — white fruit on the nose that turns to pineapple and mango on the palate, which is not what this corner of the Loire usually delivers — all held together by a saline, incisive core. Dry, full-bodied and powerful. It'll drink beautifully now with air, and better still in five years.