The white in Matthew Rorick's Queen of the Sierra trio, grown organically on the Rorick Heritage Vineyard at 2,000 feet in Calaveras County over a layer of schist and dolomite-rich limestone. Chardonnay, Verdelho, and Muscat are hand-picked, foot-trod, and co-fermented with native yeast in open tank before resting in large neutral barrel. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. The Chardonnay supplies frame, Verdelho a faint nuttiness, Muscat a perfumed lift, and the whole reads honeyed and saline at once. A serious Sierra Foothills white from a name that has helped redefine the region.