Tiago Sampaio is one of the most interesting voices in the Douro right now, making natural wines under the Uivo label (uivo means "howl" — a nod to the wolves that still roam the high vineyards). Folias de Baco is his project, built around old field-blend parcels at 500-700 meters, where schist and granite soils and the altitude conspire to keep things fresh in a region usually known for size. Renegado is the entry: a co-fermented field blend of roughly two dozen varieties — half red, half white, hand-harvested and macerated whole-cluster for three days — that lands somewhere between a light red and a deep rosé. Crunchy, lifted, dangerously gulpable.