The Douro spent centuries making Port, and the world is only now catching up to what those same steep schist terraces can do with dry red wine. Filipe Ferreira makes this one at Quinta da Foz, a site the IVDP grades at its top rating, from Touriga Nacional with Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca — hand-harvested and foot-trodden in granite lagares, the old way. Mary Taylor's whole model is to find the person actually farming the land and put their name on the front of the bottle, and that's exactly what's happening here. What's inside is dark, structured and properly serious: the Douro speaking plainly, without the fortification.