Dry-farming Chardonnay at 1,800 feet in the Mayacamas is not the easy way to do it, but it's the interesting way. Far Mountain — the project of Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto — builds Myrna on old Wente-selection vines on the western face of Bald Mountain, with a lift of fruit from a cool site at the base of Sonoma Mountain. Elevation and no irrigation mean small berries and low yields, which is winemaker shorthand for concentration without heaviness. This lands in the savory, mineral register rather than the buttery one: deep, taut, herbal at the edges, and clearly meant for the dinner table. Myrna means 'beloved,' and the ambition here is not subtle.