Le Dos d'Chat is Fabrice Dodane's négociant label, born out of necessity when hail and frost thinned the crop at his own Jura estate. Necessity worked out well. The Bodines fruit comes from Julien Crinquand, a young grower Dodane has mentored, farming one of the better sites in Arbois. Dodane is a native-yeast, low-sulfur purist, and this Chardonnay is raised in large 500- to 600-liter barrels, so the oak frames the wine rather than flavors it. What you get is Jura Chardonnay with nerve and grip — savory, textured, faintly smoky, and built for dinner rather than a swirl-and-spit.