Evangelho Vineyard, planted in Contra Costa's sandy soils around 1890, is one of California's most storied old-vine sites — a place that, in the right hands, produces wines of unmistakable lift and energy. Hardy Wallace (formerly of Dirty and Rowdy) gets a parcel of those gnarled, ungrafted Carignane vines and treats them with the lightest possible touch: native yeast, stainless and neutral barrel, unfined, unfiltered, low sulfur. The result is a vibrant, soaring Carignane — crunchy red fruit, bright acid, and a dusty whisper of those famous sandy soils.