Pommard with a real address. Éric Boigelot farms a handful of small parcels across the Côte de Beaune, and En Bœuf is a quiet lieu-dit on the village's southern edge — clay-rich soils that give Pommard its trademark depth and grip. This is classical, unforced Pinot Noir: dark-fruited, faintly earthy, with the structure that makes Pommard a wine to lay down for a few years (or open with something off the grill tonight). A grower bottling at a moment when grower Burgundy from these villages keeps getting harder to find.