Watson Ranch is one of those quietly important California vineyards that the cognoscenti chase but the general public has never heard of. It sits in Coombsville, in the cool southern corner of Napa, above an old limestone quarry whose stone helped rebuild San Francisco after the 1906 earthquake. The same site supplies Arnot-Roberts, among others. John Lockwood of Enfield farms 30-plus-year-old vines here and makes the Chardonnay in a precise, mineral, low-intervention style. Tense, saline, and a long way from buttery Napa Chardonnay.