Francis Egly is the fourth generation to farm old vines in the grand cru village of Ambonnay, and there is a broad consensus that nobody there does it better. This is his calling card: roughly 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, about 70% Ambonnay, the rest from Bouzy, Verzenay and Verzy, aged four years on the lees, raised in barrel, bottled unfined and unfiltered with a barely-there dosage. Egly's whole philosophy is that complexity comes from perfect fruit plus patience, and you can taste both. It's powerful, chalky and completely serious -- Champagne to put on the dinner table, not just the doormat greeting.