If you've ever spotted an Ott bottle across a restaurant, you spotted the flute first. The tall, tapered silhouette, designed in the early 20th century and inspired by Provence's cypress trees, has been the Ott family's signature since the 1930s and is now an unofficial icon of Provencal rose. Chateau Romassan is their Bandol estate, where Mourvedre takes the lead and the rose gains weight, spice, and aging potential beyond the usual Provence sip. The 2023 is peach-hued with citrus, melon, lemon verbena, and a salty, crunchy mineral finish. Serious rose in a serious bottle.