Givry is the appellation red-Burgundy drinkers tend to keep quietly to themselves. Nicolas Ragot has run this small family domaine in the Cote Chalonnaise since 2008 — around nine hectares, mostly Pinot Noir, a third of it premier cru — and he is one of the reasons the village is finally getting its due. Teppe des Cheneves sits high on the slope with an eastern exposure, planted in 2010: morning sun, good drainage, and a wine with genuine definition. It tastes the way red Burgundy is supposed to taste — bright, fine-boned, unmistakably Pinot, wearing no makeup at all. Drink it now or let it stretch out over seven or eight years.