Les Sables is named for what it grows in: sand and silica over limestone bedrock, Cour-Cheverny's recipe for a white that is all nerve. It's 100% Romorantin — a grape that exists nowhere on the planet but this fifty-hectare corner of the Loire — from vines twenty to forty years old. Tessier ferments with native yeasts and ages the wine in foudre and demi-muid before a stretch in stainless steel, which puts flesh on the frame without leaving any oak taste behind. Denser than the domaine's basic Cour-Cheverny, more immediately approachable than La Porte Doree. Serve it cold and don't be surprised when it turns out to be the most interesting white on the table.