Domaine Tessier began as an asparagus farm. Roger Tessier started tucking vines between the rows in 1960; his son Philippe joined in 1981, converted the vineyards to organics by the late nineties, and turned the place into one of the reference points for natural wine in the Loire. Simon Tessier runs it now. The Cheverny rouge is the house's everyday red — Pinot Noir leading, Gamay for the crunch, a splash of Cot for grip — fermented with wild yeasts and bottled without fining or filtration and with barely any sulfur. It drinks like it was made to be drunk. The 2025 is young and full of nervous energy, which is exactly the point: put a chill on it and go.