Domaine Labet, the biodynamic family estate in Rotalier at the southern edge of the Jura, is best known for soulful Chardonnay and Savagnin, so it's no surprise their sparkling is equally serious. Les Turbulents is a Blanc de Blancs Cremant du Jura, Chardonnay-based and made in the traditional method with long lees aging and bottled bone-dry. The payoff is a fizz with real depth: orchard fruit and citrus, a bready, leesy undertow and a fine, persistent mousse. This is Champagne-lover's territory at a friendlier proposition. A genuinely grown-up sparkler.