Lias takes its name from the blue clay-limestone soils that run through Domaine Labet's vineyards in the southern Jura. This Chardonnay comes from old vines and is made in the topped-up (ouille) style, meaning fresh and energetic rather than nutty. Aged in barrel, it shows a lovely interplay of texture and tension, with the saline, mineral signature that runs through all of Labet's whites. A great window into one of Jura's most celebrated family domaines.