Draw the boundary line around Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Domaine de Cristia's old-vine Cotes du Rhone grows just outside it -- same red clay, same fist-sized river stones, a fraction of the fuss. The Grangeon family has farmed here in Courthezon since the 1940s and went certified organic back in 2008. These vines are around 60 years old, and the wine is 90% Grenache with a splash of Syrah, raised in concrete so nothing gets between you and the fruit. That's the whole trick: the address does the work. Open it on a Tuesday and don't overthink it.