Comptoir is the personal project of David Castleberry, the San Francisco sommelier who once ran the wine program at RN74 before Santa Barbara pulled him into making his own. Here he's coaxed dry Riesling out of Melville Vineyard — a cool, sandy, fog-swept Sta. Rita Hills site the wine world knows for Pinot and Chardonnay, not Riesling. He ferments and ages it in neutral barrels to keep the aromatics pure, and bottled this one in collaboration with Bodega, one of SF's favorite Vietnamese kitchens. It's California Riesling that clearly wants to be at the dinner table.