There's a different endangered bird on every vintage of this label, a tradition founder Paolo Panerai started in 1977 to protest illegal bird hunting and to mark Castellare as a wildlife refuge that farms without poisons. The wine inside is just as principled: I Sodi di San Niccolo is one of the original Super Tuscans, but where most reached for Cabernet, Panerai bet on native grapes. It's a blend of the estate's own Sangioveto clone and a splash of Malvasia Nera, grown on steep, hand-worked slopes and aged two years in French oak, then two more in bottle before release. The result is a serious, age-worthy Tuscan that trades brute power for elegance, with the structure to cellar for a decade or more. A modern classic with a conscience.