Grower Champagne from the Cote des Bar, the wild south of the region that's been quietly stealing the spotlight. Thibaud Brocard, fifth generation, refocused the family house on single-vineyard, single-vintage, single-grape bottlings, and this is Pinot Noir at its most transparent: a Blanc de Noirs (a white wine from a red grape) off one organically farmed plot planted back in 1962. Nearly five years on the lees give it depth, and a low-dosage Extra Brut finish keeps it taut and dry. It's savory, mineral, and serious without a trace of stuffiness. If you think you know Champagne, the Cote des Bar will happily change your mind.