Byron Kosuge sources this Chardonnay from cool, fog-influenced sites along the Sonoma Coast—a different beast from his Carneros work. The style is unmistakably his: barrel-fermented but with restrained new oak, and full malolactic fermentation. Expect lemon zest and green apple up front, wet stone underneath, and a long, mineral-driven finish. Chardonnay made by someone who has been doing this for over thirty years and has nothing left to prove.