Antoine Sanzay farms in the most rarefied neighborhood in the Loire, Saumur-Champigny, next door to legends like Clos Rougeard, and he's carrying the torch for Cabernet Franc as a serious, ageable wine. La Paterne is his most welcoming cuvee: 100% Cabernet Franc from 45-plus-year-old vines rooted in iron-rich clay and limestone over the region's signature tuffeau chalk. It's certified organic, fermented with wild yeast in concrete, and raised mostly in tank with a bit of old barrel, all in service of transparency rather than makeup. The result is a fresh, perfumed, mid-weight red that rewards a slight chill.