Long before organic Champagne was fashionable, Jacques Beaufort was doing it, ripping out every chemical in 1970 after an allergy to synthetic treatments forced his hand and making him one of the region's true organic pioneers. He bottles under his father Andre's name, and today his sons Constant and Reol run the family estate, treating the vines with hand-mixed plant and essential-oil preparations. This Brut Reserve comes from their holdings in Polisy, in the warm clay soils of the Aube, and leads with Pinot Noir rounded out by Chardonnay. It is distinctively dosed with concentrated grape must rather than cane sugar, giving a rich, honeyed generosity that sets Beaufort apart. A soulful, old-school grower Champagne with real history in the bottle.