This is not a poolside rose. Alonso & Pedrajo, a young Rioja Alta project farming high-altitude vines at the region's cool western edge, make their Suane rosado the old-fashioned, serious way, with white and red grapes given skin contact and then aged in French oak. The result is pale salmon in the glass but structured and savory on the palate, with real texture and a mineral spine. It's a rose built for the dinner table rather than the aperitif hour. If you think you don't like rose, this might change your mind.